|Wood Harvesting with Hand Tools - An Illustrated Training Manual (ILO, 1989, 128 p.)|
|BASIC WORK AND MAINTENANCE TOOLS|
|HAND TOOLS FOR WOOD HARVESTING|
|GRINDSTONES AND WHETSTONES|
|SPLITTING HAMMER AND WEDGES|
|MAKING TOOL HANDLES|
|USE AND TYPES OF AXES|
|MAINTAINING AN AXE|
|MAKING AN AXE HANDLE|
|SHAFTING AN AXE|
|USE AND TYPES OF BOW SAWS|
|TYPES OF CROSS-CUT SAWS|
|MAINTENANCE TOOLS FOR CROSS-CUT SAWS|
|FILING VICES, SELF-MADE|
|FILING VICES, COMMERCIALLY-MADE|
|MAINTAINING A PEG-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW|
|TYPES OF RAKER-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAWS|
|MAINTAINING A RAKER-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW|
|MAJOR OVERHAUL OF CROSS-CUT SAWS|
|CLOTHING, PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT, FIRST-AID EQUIPMENT|
|FOOD, NUTRITION AND REST|
|WORKING POSTURES AND MOVEMENTS|
|WORK PLANNING AND ORGANISATION|
|PREPARATION FOR TREE FELLING|
|TREE FELLING WITH AXE AND BOW SAW|
|TREE FELLING WITH AXE AND CROSS-CUT SAW|
|PRECAUTIONS WHEN MAKING THE UNDERCUT AND THE BACK CUT|
|FELLING TREES LEANING INTO THE PLANNED FELLING DIRECTION|
|FELLING TREES LEANING TO THE SIDE|
|TREE FELLING IN DENSE TROPICAL FORESTS|
|FELLING OF TREES WITH PLANK BUTTRESSES|
|WOOD WASTAGE DUE TO POOR WORKING TECHNIQUES IN FELLING|
|RELEASING LODGED TREES|
|RELEASING LODGED TREES WITH SIMPLE TOOLS|
|RELEASING LODGED TREES WITH SPECIAL EQUIPMENT AND MACHINES|
|DEBRANCHING AND DEBARKING|
|GENERAL RULES FOR CROSS-CUTTING|
|TOOLS FOR CROSS-CUTTING|
|SUPPORTS AND TRESTLES|
|CROSS-CUTTING OF TREES UNDER TENSION|
|WOOD WASTAGE IN CROSS-CUTTING|
|WOOD HANDLING AND TRANSPORT|
|HANDLING BILLETS AND LOGS|
|MANUAL TRANSPORT OF SMALLER-SIZED WOOD|
|USE OF SKIDDING SULKIES|
|SLIDING WOOD DOWNHILL|
|STACKING AND STORING OF WOOD|
|TRAINING IN WOOD HARVESTING|
|OTHER ILO PUBLICATIONS|
Bow saws are handy for felling and cross-cutting small trees provided the wood is not too hard.
For professional use, the bow saw should consist of a high-quality oval steel frame holding a thin blade under high tension (1). A protective cover is needed to guard the blade during transport (1a).
A one-man bow saw with an asymmetric frame of approx. 100 cm length is recommended (1). There are also models with a symmetric frame and one side of the bow extended into a handle which allows more force in cutting but restricts movement if space is narrow (1b).
For a frame of 100 cm length, the corresponding saw blades (2) are 91.5 cm long and usually have hard-pointed peg teeth (2a) or raker teeth (2b).
When a hard-pointed blade loses its set and starts pinching, it should be re-set with setting pliers (3).
When the blade becomes dull, it can be re-sharpened with a whetstone (4). If the saw runs to one side, the whetstone should be used on the side to which it is running (5).
Hard-pointed blades wear out after some time and must then be discarded. Great care must be taken during cutting to avoid contact with soil, sand and stones.