Cover Image
close this bookWood Harvesting with Hand Tools - An Illustrated Training Manual (ILO, 1989, 128 p.)
View the document(introduction...)
View the documentINTRODUCTION
close this folderBASIC WORK AND MAINTENANCE TOOLS
View the documentHAND TOOLS FOR WOOD HARVESTING
View the documentFILES
View the documentGRINDSTONES AND WHETSTONES
View the documentSPLITTING HAMMER AND WEDGES
View the documentMAKING TOOL HANDLES
close this folderAXES
View the documentUSE AND TYPES OF AXES
View the documentMAINTAINING AN AXE
View the documentMAKING AN AXE HANDLE
View the documentSHAFTING AN AXE
close this folderBOW SAWS
View the documentUSE AND TYPES OF BOW SAWS
close this folderCROSS-CUT SAWS
View the documentTYPES OF CROSS-CUT SAWS
View the documentMAINTENANCE TOOLS FOR CROSS-CUT SAWS
View the documentFILING VICES, SELF-MADE
View the documentFILING VICES, COMMERCIALLY-MADE
View the documentMAINTAINING A PEG-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW
View the documentTYPES OF RAKER-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAWS
View the documentMAINTAINING A RAKER-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW
View the documentMAJOR OVERHAUL OF CROSS-CUT SAWS
close this folderTHE WORKER
View the documentCLOTHING, PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT, FIRST-AID EQUIPMENT
View the documentFOOD, NUTRITION AND REST
View the documentWORKING POSTURES AND MOVEMENTS
View the documentWORK PLANNING AND ORGANISATION
View the documentACCIDENT PREVENTION
close this folderTREE FELLING
View the documentPREPARATION FOR TREE FELLING
View the documentTREE FELLING WITH AXE AND BOW SAW
View the documentTREE FELLING WITH AXE AND CROSS-CUT SAW
View the documentPRECAUTIONS WHEN MAKING THE UNDERCUT AND THE BACK CUT
View the documentFELLING TREES LEANING INTO THE PLANNED FELLING DIRECTION
View the documentFELLING TREES LEANING TO THE SIDE
View the documentTREE FELLING IN DENSE TROPICAL FORESTS
View the documentFELLING OF TREES WITH PLANK BUTTRESSES
View the documentWOOD WASTAGE DUE TO POOR WORKING TECHNIQUES IN FELLING
close this folderRELEASING LODGED TREES
View the documentRELEASING LODGED TREES WITH SIMPLE TOOLS
View the documentRELEASING LODGED TREES WITH SPECIAL EQUIPMENT AND MACHINES
close this folderDEBRANCHING AND DEBARKING
View the documentDEBRANCHING
View the documentDEBARKING
close this folderCROSS-CUTTING
View the documentGENERAL RULES FOR CROSS-CUTTING
View the documentTOOLS FOR CROSS-CUTTING
View the documentSUPPORTS AND TRESTLES
View the documentCROSS-CUTTING OF TREES UNDER TENSION
View the documentWOOD WASTAGE IN CROSS-CUTTING
View the documentCUTTING WINDFALLS
View the documentWOOD SPLITTING
close this folderWOOD HANDLING AND TRANSPORT
View the documentHANDLING BILLETS AND LOGS
View the documentMANUAL TRANSPORT OF SMALLER-SIZED WOOD
View the documentUSE OF SKIDDING SULKIES
View the documentSLIDING WOOD DOWNHILL
View the documentSTACKING AND STORING OF WOOD
View the documentPIT-SAWING
View the documentTRAINING IN WOOD HARVESTING
View the documentOTHER ILO PUBLICATIONS
View the documentBACK COVER

MAINTAINING A PEG-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW

The following measures are recommended for triangular teeth:

Hardness of wood

Distance between points of two teeth

Height of tooth

Width of gullet between two teeth

Hard

17 mm

16 mm

6.0 mm

Soft

9 mm

12 mm

0.5 mm

Mixed hard and soft

14 mm

15 mm

3.7 mm

Maintenance starts with jointing while the saw is firmly held in a vertical position by the filing vice. The jointer is run along the saw teeth using very little pressure (1). In normal use, the teeth in the middle of the saw will wear more quickly than those at the end. This is adjusted by increased pressure at the beginning and the end of the jointing stroke.

The jointing is continued until all cutter teeth show a small "flat" and jointing should stop when this happens. One or a few (if evenly distributed) badly worn or broken teeth are not considered. Further jointings will bring them back into the tooth line.

Cutter teeth filing is done with a 20 cm millsaw file using horizontal strokes parallel to the lines of a grid attached to the vice (2). The sharpening angle marked on the grid (2a) is 70° for hard wood and 60° for soft wood. These angles may be copied from figure 3. The top angle (2b) is 38° for hard and soft wood. A gauge is needed to check the sharpening angle and the top angle (4). During filing, the gullet should be lowered at the same time (5). First file one side of the saw, tooth by tooth, and then turn the saw and file the other side. Care must be taken to stop filing when the flat is about to disappear.

Deburring is done with the whetstone, the fine side of which is run lightly along both sides (as for raker-tooth saws, see page 38).

Setting is carried out with a setting indicator (6a) and a special saw set (6b). The correct set is 0.3-0.4 mm for hard wood and 0.5-0.6 mm for soft wood.

Note: Badly worn saws may need gulleting before sharpening begins. This is best done after having marked the gullet depth and position (7a). The round edge of the millsaw file is used for gulleting (7b).


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