Essays of Travel
by Stevenson

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Essays of Travel by Robert Louis Stevenson
Scanned and proofed by David Price
ccx074@coventry.ac.uk





ESSAYS OF TRAVEL



Contents

I. THE AMATEUR EMIGRANT: FROM THE CLYDE TO SANDY HOOK
THE SECOND CABIN
EARLY IMPRESSION
STEERAGE IMPRESSIONS
STEERAGE TYPES
THE SICK MAN
THE STOWAWAYS
PERSONAL EXPIERENCE AND REVIEW
NEW YORK
II. COCKERMOUTH AND KESWICK
COCKERMOUTH
AN EVANGELIST
ANOTHER
LAST OF SMETHURST
III. AN AUTUMN EFFECT
IV. A WINTER'S WALK IN CARRICK AND GALLOWAY
V. FOREST NOTES -
ON THE PLAINS
IN THE SEASON
IDLE HOURS
A PLEASURE-PARTY
THE WOODS IN SPRING
MORALITY
VI. A MOUNTAIN TOWN IN FRANCE
VII. RANDOM MEMORIES: ROSA QUO LOCORUM
VIII. THE IDEAL HOUSE
IX. DAVOS IN WINTER
X. HEALTH AND MOUNTAINS
XI. ALPINE DIVERSION
XII. THE STUMULATION OF THE ALPS
XIII. ROADS
XIV. ON THE ENJOYMENT OF UNPLEASANT PLACES





CHAPTER I - THE AMATEUR EMIGRANT



THE SECOND CABIN


I FIRST encountered my fellow-passengers on the Broomielaw in
Glasgow. Thence we descended the Clyde in no familiar spirit, but
looking askance on each other as on possible enemies. A few
Scandinavians, who had already grown acquainted on the North Sea,
were friendly and voluble over their long pipes; but among English
speakers distance and suspicion reigned supreme. The sun was soon
overclouded, the wind freshened and grew sharp as we continued to
descend the widening estuary; and with the falling temperature the
gloom among the passengers increased. Two of the women wept. Any
one who had come aboard might have supposed we were all absconding
from the law. There was scarce a word interchanged, and no common
sentiment but that of cold united us, until at length, having touched
at Greenock, a pointing arm and a rush to the starboard now announced
that our ocean steamer was in sight. There she lay in mid-river, at
the Tail of the Bank, her sea-signal flying: a wall of bulwark, a
street of white deck-houses, an aspiring forest of spars, larger than
a church, and soon to be as populous as many an incorporated town in
the land to which she was to bear us.