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close this book A complete handbook on backyard and commercial rabbit production
close this folder Simplified tanning
View the document 1. Slaughtering
View the document 2. Curing the skin
View the document 3. Dehairing
View the document 4. Actual tanning
View the document 5. Washing and oiling
View the document Oiling formula
View the document Making charms from rabbit paws and tails
View the document Making artificial rabbit tails

5. Washing and oiling

When the skins are tanned, wash them in soft water. Begin with water that had been mixed with borax to remove the tanning chemicals (one spoonful to a gallon), then wash several more times in plain clear water. Press and squeeze out the water but do not twist or wring the skins.

Stretch the skins on a V-shaped, 1.50 m long piece of No. 9 galvanized iron wire covered with plastic to prevent rusting. The fur should be inside and the flesh facing out. When this is done, apply coconut or olive oil thinly and evenly on the skins (see oiling formula below)(Fig. 39) . If either olive or coconut oil is not available, use 100 cc of any type that is procurable and will not turn rancid. If only one of the recommended is available, use 100 cc for the oiling process, To dry, hang the skins in the shaded place not under the direct sunlight (Fig. 40).


FIGURE 39 - Rub a thin layer of oil solution on the fleshside of the pelt.


FIGURE 40 - Dry the skin On a U-shaped frame covered with plastic tubing in the shade.

When the skins are about 95 per cent dried, start working or kneading them. Stretching or buffing the skins until they are as soft as linen handkerchiefs may take hours (Fig. 41). This is also one of the most critical parts of the tanning process. Negligence can never be repaired. the more you buff the skins the better. When the skins are well dried and soft and are ready for use, powder them with talcum.