| A complete handbook on backyard and commercial rabbit production |
-Two inch lenght of stick (this lenght of stick will serve as the 'bone' so it should be as wide as you want the finished 'tail' to be.)
-One rabbit hide, slit down the center of the stomach or you can use remnant pieces of hide.
-One razor blade (single edge is safer and provides more control.)
-One can of Rugby contact cement.
-Paint thinner (to clean glue from fingers.)
-Wood glue (perstop powdered glue).
-One .075 nail.
-One inch lenght of copper wire.
-One rack which will allow the finished product to dry in an upright position.
-Paper and pen.
READ ALL STEPS FIRST BEFORE PROCEEDING
1. Roll a piece of heavy paper (this will serve as your pattern) around the .05 stick frame. Make a 1 cm hole in one end of the frame with it .a .05 nail, where you will later insert the - copper wire hook ( Fig. 49).
2. Make the lenght of this pattern .064 (the extra .0125 will hang off the end of the .05 stick frame to imitate the end of a normal rabbit tail (Fig. 50).
3. Mark the exact point where the two ends of the pattern meet when wrapped around the frame. (this is the width of the pattern).
4. Cut the pattern at the exact width of the frame.
5. Lay pattern on inside of pelt and trace the pattern onto pelt in such a way so that the direction of the fur will end up running smoothly down toward the end of the "tail" (Fig. 51).
6. Then take your pen and ruler and retrace the pattern with a more heavily defined dotted line. Make sure your width is exact to avoid overlap (Fig. 52)!
7. Before you actually cut the hide keep in mind that you do not want to cut the fur...only the hide, except along the edge that will eventual!.`, be the top of your rabbit's tail (STUDY ILLUSTRATION) ( Fig. 53).
8. Now take your razor blade (preferably single edge) and slowly cut out the pattern (Caution here because it is very easy to slip and cut yourself and damage the fur ) (Fig. 54).
9. With your finger, smooth some Rugby contact cement onto the inside of this cut pelt. (Do not get cement on fur!!) (Fig. 55).
10. With your finger, smooth a thin layer of Rugby contact cement onto the .05 or- .038 stick frame also (Fig. 56).
11. Let these two glued surfaces sit until almost dry-about 20 - 30 minutes.( You can clean your fingers with the paint thinner while you wait.) (Fig. 57).
12. Slowly and carefully place the stick frame on the pelt as illustrated (Fig. 58).
13. Roll skin onto frame evenly. If you cut the pelt accurately the ends will be flush with each other (not overlapping). If the pelt is too short, try stretching it with your fingers so it will reach (Fig. 59)
14. This photo shows a pelt that has not been cut accurately resulting in overlap . . something best to avoid (Fig. 60).
15. The .0125 excess in length hangs from the bottom to create the illusion of a tail which you can help by gently molding the "excess" pelt with your fingers (Fig. 61).
16. Mix a small amount of the Per-stop Powdered glue with a small amount of water so as to make a thick paste about the consistency of very thick peanut butter.
17. Using a small pointed stick, apply this glue to the top of the produced (or fake) rabbit tail-do not get the glue on fur-and form into a small rising mound as illustrated (Fig. 62).
18. Then wet your finger and smooth all rough spots on this mound of thick glue. The reason is, this glue dries very hard and any jagged edges will cut you easily (Fig. 63).
19. Bend the .025 length of copper wire around a thick nail to form your hook and insert the bent wire into the hole of the frame, through the mound of glue. (Again smooth rough areas with wet finger.)
20. Put finished rabbit tail into a rack to dry for 24 hours or until the glue hardens (Fig. 65).
21. Strands of colored ribbon or crochetted string looped through the copper hook add a colorful touch. Or attach a metal ball chain fastener (Fig. 66).
22. If you have many rabbit tails, link them together in a long strand and bring them to market.