Cover Image
close this book A complete handbook on backyard and commercial rabbit production
close this folder Simplified tanning
View the document 1. Slaughtering
View the document 2. Curing the skin
View the document 3. Dehairing
View the document 4. Actual tanning
View the document 5. Washing and oiling
View the document Oiling formula
View the document Making charms from rabbit paws and tails
View the document Making artificial rabbit tails

Making artificial rabbit tails

Materials

-Two inch lenght of stick (this lenght of stick will serve as the 'bone' so it should be as wide as you want the finished 'tail' to be.)

-One rabbit hide, slit down the center of the stomach or you can use remnant pieces of hide.

-One razor blade (single edge is safer and provides more control.)

-One can of Rugby contact cement.

-Paint thinner (to clean glue from fingers.)

-Wood glue (perstop powdered glue).

-One .075 nail.

-One inch lenght of copper wire.

-One rack which will allow the finished product to dry in an upright position.

-Paper and pen.

READ ALL STEPS FIRST BEFORE PROCEEDING

1. Roll a piece of heavy paper (this will serve as your pattern) around the .05 stick frame. Make a 1 cm hole in one end of the frame with it .a .05 nail, where you will later insert the - copper wire hook ( Fig. 49).


FIGURE 49

2. Make the lenght of this pattern .064 (the extra .0125 will hang off the end of the .05 stick frame to imitate the end of a normal rabbit tail (Fig. 50).


FIGURE 50

3. Mark the exact point where the two ends of the pattern meet when wrapped around the frame. (this is the width of the pattern).

4. Cut the pattern at the exact width of the frame.

5. Lay pattern on inside of pelt and trace the pattern onto pelt in such a way so that the direction of the fur will end up running smoothly down toward the end of the "tail" (Fig. 51).


FIGURE 51

6. Then take your pen and ruler and retrace the pattern with a more heavily defined dotted line. Make sure your width is exact to avoid overlap (Fig. 52)!


FIGURE 52

7. Before you actually cut the hide keep in mind that you do not want to cut the fur...only the hide, except along the edge that will eventual!.`, be the top of your rabbit's tail (STUDY ILLUSTRATION) ( Fig. 53).


FIGURE 53

8. Now take your razor blade (preferably single edge) and slowly cut out the pattern (Caution here because it is very easy to slip and cut yourself and damage the fur ) (Fig. 54).


FIGURE 54

9. With your finger, smooth some Rugby contact cement onto the inside of this cut pelt. (Do not get cement on fur!!) (Fig. 55).


FIGURE 55

10. With your finger, smooth a thin layer of Rugby contact cement onto the .05 or- .038 stick frame also (Fig. 56).


FIGURE 56

11. Let these two glued surfaces sit until almost dry-about 20 - 30 minutes.( You can clean your fingers with the paint thinner while you wait.) (Fig. 57).


FIGURE 57

12. Slowly and carefully place the stick frame on the pelt as illustrated (Fig. 58).


FIGURE 58

13. Roll skin onto frame evenly. If you cut the pelt accurately the ends will be flush with each other (not overlapping). If the pelt is too short, try stretching it with your fingers so it will reach (Fig. 59)


FIGURE 59

14. This photo shows a pelt that has not been cut accurately resulting in overlap . . something best to avoid (Fig. 60).


FIGURE 60

15. The .0125 excess in length hangs from the bottom to create the illusion of a tail which you can help by gently molding the "excess" pelt with your fingers (Fig. 61).


FIGURE 61

16. Mix a small amount of the Per-stop Powdered glue with a small amount of water so as to make a thick paste about the consistency of very thick peanut butter.

17. Using a small pointed stick, apply this glue to the top of the produced (or fake) rabbit tail-do not get the glue on fur-and form into a small rising mound as illustrated (Fig. 62).


FIGURE 62

18. Then wet your finger and smooth all rough spots on this mound of thick glue. The reason is, this glue dries very hard and any jagged edges will cut you easily (Fig. 63).


FIGURE 63

19. Bend the .025 length of copper wire around a thick nail to form your hook and insert the bent wire into the hole of the frame, through the mound of glue. (Again smooth rough areas with wet finger.)


FIGURE 64

20. Put finished rabbit tail into a rack to dry for 24 hours or until the glue hardens (Fig. 65).


FIGURE 65

21. Strands of colored ribbon or crochetted string looped through the copper hook add a colorful touch. Or attach a metal ball chain fastener (Fig. 66).


FIGURE 66

22. If you have many rabbit tails, link them together in a long strand and bring them to market.