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close this book A training manual in conducting a workshop in the design, construction, operation, maintenance and repair of hydrams
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Attachment 10-N

Session 10, Handout 10N

MATERIALS: gravel, sand, cement, water, form lumber, plastic pipe, bowl, fittings, material for vapor barrier something to mix cement in. Size and quantity of materials is dependent upon the hydram to be constructed. Following is an example of a typical list of materials for a 1" hydram.

1 " CONCRETE HYDRAM MATERIALS LIST

1 1"x 12"x 8' lumber for body

8 3/8 althread 36" form

1 1"x 12"x 8' lumber for accumulator forms

26 3/8 lock washers

1 ¼"x 7" diameter steel plate

26 3/8 flat washers

1 3" PVC pipe cap

26 3/8 nuts

1 4" bowl

1 1" pipe plug

1 1'x 1'x ½ belting

1 1" pipe tee

1 7" diameter x ¼" belting

1 ¼" pipe plug

1 1"x 2" angle 1" long

1 ¼" pipe tee

1 rubber stop bumper

1 ¼" pipe plug

1 ¼" gas cock

1 ¼" pipe tee

1 1" PVC pipe 2' long

2pcs. ¼" pipe 2" long

1 ½" nipple 1½" long

1 1" PVC male adapter

2 2½" washer with 3/8" hole

1 ¼" PVC pipe 22' long

2 1½" washer with 3/8" hole

1 1" PVC coupling

5/16" wing nut

½ lb 6d nails

1 5/16 x 2½" bolt

form oil

2 ¼ x½ bolt

2½ gal water

3 5/16 nut

32# cement

1 3/8 bolt 1" long

1 1/3 cu.ft. gravel

1 3" PVC pipe 18" long

1 1/6 cu.ft. sand

Handouts 10A - 10 L

shovels

 

PROCEDURES

NOTES

12.

With all the tools and materials gathered, begin construction.

 
 

Phase I - Part Two

 

13.

Start by constructing the hydram base form. (See handout 10J)

 

14.

Next, bend the PVC pipe and cut to proper length and angles. Be sure to glue a coupling to the check valve end to increase the seat area.

 

15.

Notch out bottom of plastic bowl to fit upon the PVC pipe: with the bowl and pipe held together, mark where the pipe touches the inside of the bowl; then, using coping saw, cut along this line. Attach male adapter and the plugged tee to input end of pipe. The plugged tee serves to prevent the pipe from turning within the concrete. Welding a piece of metal onto the coupling would also work.

 

16.

Drill holes in the bottom of the form for the bolt pattern around the impulse valve and the accumulator.

 

17.

Center accumulator form pipe on the inside of the form and draw a circle around it. Drive three 6d nails onehalf way in, 120 degrees apart through the circle, making compensation for the thickness of the accumulator form pipe.

 

18.

Drill hole in PVC pipe for snifter. Drill another hole in form for the other end of snifter. Snifter pipe should have a plugged tee in the middle or a piece of metal welded to the side of it to eliminate turning.

 

19.

An elliptical rubber washer should be cut out and nailed where the check valve end of the PVC pipe comes in contact with the form. This is to recess the concrete around the check valve seat to insure a good seat.

 

20.

Bolt sleeves to form using althread, nuts and washers.

 

21.

Tie PVC pie down to form using tie-wire.

 

22.

Pour the base of the hydram using the following concrete formula: 8 parts gravel, 7 parts sand, 2 parts cement, and water to proper consistency. Tap on the form sides while pouring to prevent air pockets. Cover concrete with a vapor barrier such as visqueen, then cover entire pour with insulation. Draw pattern for impulse valve plate and send to metal shop.

 
 

Phase II

 

23.

After the hydram base has had sufficient time to set (usually about 2 days), remove form and place hydram base right side up on blocks so that the bolt holes on the bottom can be reached.

 

24.

Place a sheet of plastic or wax paper or anything that will prevent a concrete marriage and that won't wrinkle on top of the accumulator end of the hydram.

 

25.

Place althread and sleeves through bolt pattern at accumulator with nuts and washers on both ends. Tighten until sleeves are rigid.

 

26.

Build form for accumulator as shown in Handout 10J.

 

27.

Place accumulator form pipe over the three nails sticking up through the concrete at the check valve. Pack with sand to prevent pipe from floating up in concrete. Cap end of accumulator form pipe with tape or PVC cap.

 

28.

Place accumulator form on top of hydram base and install the delivery pipe connection between this form and the accumulator form pipe.

 

29.

Pour accumulator form full of concrete using the same mixture ratio as used in step #22.

 

30.

Cover with a vapor barrier such as visqueen and insulation.

 
 

Phase III

 

31.

After concrete has had sufficient time to set up (about one to two days), remove form.

 

32.

Using a large piece of paper, make a pattern from the hydram base for both the impulse valve rubber and the accumulator check valve rubber.

 

33.

Cut out the rubbers according to the pattern. If the rubber is too thick to allow free movement of the valves, a v-notch may need to be cut into the rubber at the flex point of the valve.

 

34.

Drill and cut out a piece of sheet metal for the impulse plate and attach stop bracket.

 

35.

Install althread, bolt, nuts and washers on both pieces of rubber as shown in the attachment.

 

36.

Bolt accumulator to base with check valve rubber for a gasket.

 

37.

Bolt impulse valve rubber and plate to hydram base.

 

38.

Install stroke adjustment bolt locknut and rubber bumper.

 
 

Phase IV

 

39.

Install ram to drive pipe and delivery pipe. Start up. Adjust for amount of flow available.

 

40.

Have the trainees determine the flow rate into and out of the hydram and determine the efficiency.

 

41.

Discuss with the trainees what they feel the advantages and disadvantages of this ram might be and when they might be important.